Did you know......AHF-All hardwood floor Ltd™ our company engaged in producing  High quality hardwood floors and stairs  but  actually produces Extreme quality that is definitely unparallel in all applications  of traditional  hardwood floor applications , Based on over thirty years of documented experience .  Extreme quality means the wow factor on all hardwood floor installation  or refinishing of all hardwood  species, some call old school there are no gimmicks here, Just the straight honest truth. You wont be misled by us. You will be offered first the best of the best, that's what we do.

 AHF- All Hardwood floor Ltd. Professional wood flooring  services contractor -  Vancouver, BC

Supplying and installing quality hardwood floors and Stairs, professional  Dustless floor sanding,

 Dust Free refinishing , reliable Vancouver home improvement services .  Offering thirty years of experience,  All types and styles hardwood flooring services as the name might suggest.  Established in 2003 All hardwood floor Ltd. Continues to exceed customer expectations with great value and diligent punctual Hardwood restoration services and new hardwood flooring and stars installation a specialty.

dependable ,reliable home improvement services  around Vancouver, BC.

    Fine quality , often unique, always distinctive  Hardwood  flooring from engineered floating hardwood floors ,nail down Hardwood floors, tongue and groove, wood floor installation, Glued down floors, radiant heated hardwood, exotic wood species, Custom floor staining, Our Glitsa Swedish finished hardwood floors are designed for subtle beauty to last a life time. All environment friendly floor finishes, top quality sanders, tools and Worksafe BC certified dust containment systems   All Hardwood Species  as installed  sanded and finished on site floors that make sense as a warrantable product.  Hardwood species typical are : American Black Walnut, American Cherry, Ash, Alder, Bamboo,    Cork, White Oak, Red Oak, Beech, Cypress, Doussie, Teak, Hickory, Wenge,  Maceranduba, Paraju, Brazilian Cherry(jatoba), Indonesian Cherry(merbau),Purple heart ,Fir,  Pine, Pacific Maple,    Eastern Hard rock Maple, Silver Maple, Birch, Bamboo, Rosewood, Elm, Larch, Jarrah, Santos mahogany, Cork, Hardwood floors contractor services Serving Vancouver, North Vancouver and West Vancouver BC Canada

Hardwood flooring over radiant heat slabs and sleepers in concrete , yes we have the hardwood floor systems that we can guarantee , As with all new hardwood floor installations we will only offer you

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We Use only Industry standard practices put forth by time honored proven techniques  and practices many of which  are outlined at the NWFA National Wood Flooring Association

HARDWOOD FLOOR :Sanding and finishing general guidelines and information

Sanding and Finishing Guidelines

C. NOTE: When sanding eased- or beveled-edge flooring, appearance of bevels may not be

consistent after sanding. In the case of a micro-bevel product, it is possible that the bevel

will be eliminated.

D. Load the professional sanding machine and edger with the proper sequence of sandpaper

as shown in Appendix C and Appendix D.

E. For specific instructions on sanding and finishing strip, plank and parquet flooring, see

Chapters 2 and 3. For specific instructions on recoating an existing finished floor, see

Chapter 4.

SAFETY NOTE: SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION IS A DANGER. Sanding dust is

highly flammable. To minimize the risk, never operate the sanding machine

when the bag is more than half full. Also, never leave the sanding machine

with dust in the bag or any bag of dust in your vehicle or on the job site. For

more information on Spontaneous Combustion, see Sanding Safety, Appendix F.

􀀶

Part III – General Finishing Guidelines

A. Inspect the floor carefully for all sanding errors. Repair all sander marks as necessary.

After sanding is complete and all sander marks have been repaired, wipe or vacuum all

dust on baseboards, windows, sills, doors and door frames. Clean from the highest surface

to the lowest, in that order. Use a dampened cloth where appropriate on all surfaces

except the bare wood floor.

B. Inspect the floor for cracks and nail holes that may have been missed in the sanding

phase. Spot fill cracks and nail holes with a commercial filler or putty that is compatible

with stain and/or finish. When dry, hand-sand with the grain with the last abrasive used in

the final sanding operation.

C. Vacuum and tack the floor clean. Repeat tacking until floor is clean.

D. If the floor is to be a natural finish, apply sealer followed by the appropriate finish. If other

than a natural color is desired the floor must be stained or bleached. For bleaching refer to

Chapter 5.

E. NOTE: Most manufacturers of stains and finishes recommend using products from the

same manufacturer to ensure compatibility and optimal adhesion. BEFORE USING

DIFFERENT MANUFACTURERS FOR THE STAIN AND FINISH PRODUCTS, CHECK

WITH THE MANUFACTURER FOR COMPATIBILITY.

F. Apply the stain according to manufacturer's coverage rate, application method and

procedures. The final sanding procedure and the species of the wood will determine the

depth of color.

G. Thoroughly wipe the stain from the floor. If the floor contains beveled edges, pay special

attention to the beveled areas.

H. Allow the stain to dry thoroughly, with proper air exchange and circulation. Use the finish

manufacturer's recommended drying time. If the environment is excessively humid or cold

the stain may take longer to dry. The stain must be completely dry before finishing begins.

Be aware that some wood species may require more dry time for stain than the finish

manufacturer recommends. Refer to the NWFA publication, Wood Species Used in Wood

Flooring (A200) for more information on how various species react to stain and finish

application.

Copyright 2007 National Wood Flooring Association 2 Revised March 2007

Chapter 1 – General Sanding

and Finishing Guidelines

I. Apply sealer, if necessary, according to finish manufacturer's recommended coverage rate,

application method and procedures. Refer to Applicator Recommendations in Appendix A.

1. For a wax finish apply seal, then wax and buff or burnish into wood.

2. For surface finishes, following inter coat abrasion, (see Appendix E) apply additional

coats of finish according to manufacturer's recommendation

J. Most surface finished floors can be walked on after 24-48 hours. Do not slide furniture on

the floor. Lift it into place after 48 hours or as recommended by the finish manufacturer. Area

rugs can be put down after the finish is fully cured, generally after 7 to 30 days, or as

recommended by the finish manufacturer.

K. Provide customers with information on proper maintenance practices to protect floor

finishes. Furniture or rugs placed too soon may result in finish or surface damage. Some

area rugs and padding may damage or discolor the finish. This type of damage as well as

color change due to aging and UV sunlight is not the responsibility of the flooring

contractor. In addition, soft plastic or fabric-faced floor protectors should be placed under

the legs of furniture to prevent scuffing and scratching. To prevent scratching, walk-off

mats both inside and outside doorways will help prevent grit, dirt and other debris from

being tracked onto wood floors. For more information, see Wood Floor Maintenance,

SAND & FINISH STRIP & PLANK

Job-Site Preparation and General Sanding Guidelines – See Chapter 1

Part I - Sanding Previously Finished Floors

SAFETY NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR NIOSH-APPROVED RESPIRATORY PROTECTION.

WHEN APPLYING FINISH PRODUCTS, FOLLOW THE RECOMMENDATION IN THE

MSDS SHEET PROVIDED BY THE FINISH MANUFACTURER.

NOTE: When sanding a previously finished floor, ascertain whether the floor finish

contains lead. Floor finishes applied before 1978 may contain lead. Test kits are

available to determine the presence of lead in floor finishes and other architectural

coatings. Abide by local, state and federal guidelines for handling and disposal of lead based

products. For more information, visit the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency

website at www.epa.gov/lead.

A. It is not necessary to fully sand the floor to restore the finish unless the floor has visible

dents, wear patterns or permanent cupping, or the customer wants to change the color of

the floor. A screen and recoat may suffice. See Chapter 4, Recoating a Previously

Finished Floor. Cupped floors should not be sanded until the moisture content of the wood

flooring and the subfloor have stabilized.

B. If the floor was factory-finished, determine what type of finish was applied. High-abrasion

finishes such as aluminum oxide may be more difficult to sand. High-abrasion finishes may

respond better by using a fine-grit (80-grit or finer) abrasion to remove the surface finish.

C. If the floor was previously site-finished, use a coarse-grade abrasive to remove the

previous finish. Refer to Appendix C.

D. Prior to sanding the entire floor, the bevels of beveled-edge flooring should be cleaned to

remove finish, stain and debris. This step should also be repeated after the final sanding

and prior to applying finish. Care should also be taken in applying finish on beveled-edge

flooring to ensure that finish does not “pool up” within the bevels, especially in butt-joints.

In addition, make the customer aware that sanding a beveled-edge product will change the

profile of the bevel. In the case of a micro-bevel product, it is possible that the bevel will be

eliminated.

Part II – Sanding Newly Installed Strip & Plank

A. Check the moisture content of the wood floor prior to sanding. Sanding and finishing or

sealing should occur when the floor has been acclimated to the proper moisture content for

normal living conditions for temperature and humidity. (For a more detailed discussion of

acclimation, refer to the companion piece to this publication, the National Wood Flooring

Association’s Installation Guidelines and Methods.) If the floor is installed in an adhesive

application, sanding and finishing should occur after the adhesive has cured and the

moisture content of the wood has returned to normal. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s

recommendations for proper curing time.

Copyright 2007 National Wood Flooring Association 5 Revised March 2007

Chapter 2 -

Sand & Finish Strip & Plank

B. Load the professional sanding machine and edger with the proper sequence of sandpaper

as shown in Appendix C and Appendix D.

C. The first cut with the big machine should be at a 7-15 degree angle to the length of the

boards, using the finest grit possible that will flatten the floor. (The National Wood Flooring

publication Wood Species Used in Wood Flooring includes suggestions on sanding

sequences for some of the more difficult to sand species.)

Figure 2-1

D. When two-thirds of the floor is complete, turn the sander in the opposite direction and

repeat the process on the remaining third. Cuts made in the one-third area must overlap

the first cuts by two to three feet to blend the two areas together. To avoid creating a

trough, be careful not to stop the sander in the same spot each pass by staggering the

overlap every 2-3 passes. (See Figure 2-1)

E. After the first cut with the big machine, use an edger to sand edges and other places

inaccessible to the sanding machine, using the finest grit possible that will flatten the floor.

F. The second cut with the big machine should be parallel to the grain, using the next

appropriate grit of sandpaper, not skipping more than one grit between sanding cuts. See

Appendix D.

G. After the second cut, use an edger to sand edges and other places inaccessible to the big

machine, using the same grit that will be used on the final sanding cut with the big

machine.

H. Fill the floor before the final straight cut. Spot-fill beveled-edged products; square-edged

products may be spot- or trowel-filled. Use a commercial filler or putty that is compatible

with the stain and/or finish that will be applied, or make your own filler with dust from the

final edging mixed with a compatible mixing agent to form a thick paste.

Copyright 2007 National Wood Flooring Association 6 Revised March 2007

Chapter 2 –

Sand & Finish Strip & Plank

I. The final sanding cut should be parallel to the grain, using the last sequenced grit, not

skipping more than one grit between sanding cuts. See Appendix D.

J. Hand scrape corners, around doorjambs and other areas where the edger cannot be used.

Apply even pressure, scraping in the direction of the grain. After scraping use a sanding

block and paper (same grit as on sanding machine) to blend the flooring. Sanding the

bevel with the corner of the block may be necessary on bevel-edged products.

K. Examine for visible edger and sander marks. To prevent dishing out the grain from

excessive screening, use a buffer, multi-disc sanding machine or oscillating sander over

the entire floor to remove sanding imperfections. This step may not be appropriate for all

wood species.

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