Did you know......AHF-All hardwood floor Ltd.(TM) claims not only is our company engaged in producing  High quality hardwood floors and stairs  but  actually produces Extreme quality that is definitely unparallel in all applications  of traditional  hardwood floor applications , Based on over thirty years of documented experience .  Extreme quality means the wow factor on all hardwood floor installation  or refinishing of all hardwood  species, some call old school there are no gimmicks here, Just the straight honest truth. You wont be misled by us. You will be offered first the best of the best, that's what we do.

These are the hardwood floor facts. AHF-Allhardwoodfloor ltd is run by a master craftsmen  or journeyman hardwood floorer  with certifications who's own personal skills and knowledge are recognized  sometimes feared  by almost every other major hardwood floor companies in the Vancouver lower mainland areas of British Columbia

All hardwood floor works with only Extreme quality dedicated hardwood floor machines and tools which are kept in prime working order, Generally these Clarke American Floor sanding machines and dust containment systems and vacuums machines are maintained by Delta Quip Supplies Ltd. Burnaby

We work with the coating that other floor companies have little or no experience with such as conversion varnishes sometimes call Swedish finish to which I have thirty years hands on experience with, In  fact because of the strong odor  people think its more dangerous . This is a false , If you read the chemical composition of any product which has a low odor  you will see even a low V.O.C product can sometimes be more dangerous similar to mustard gas or cyanide gases.

As of 2010 polyurethane' are off the shelf.

Wouldn't you know it!  the cheapest crappiest hardwood floor finish is now banished. As it should be.

IT turned yellow after one year, dried brittle , shows the build up or thickness and was incompatible with lacquer sanding sealer, All hardwood floor ltd has never used polyurethanes in conjunction with lacquer sanding sealer .

You want to save the environment , Does it not make more sense that if you plan to re sand  or refinish your hardwood flooring that you will benefit by not having to have this re done by using a quality coating designed to last thirty years plus with  standard  Glitsa Swedish finish application with a product is the nicest looking as it wears and is extremely durably  or make it last indefinitely with additional top coats. Glitsa (TM) the Rudd company's product have been available for sixty plus years and has always been the industry standard and is the replacement for Varnish which also lasted 40-50 years

 By not creating garbage over and over again from using products which are not extremely durably and do not last, restoring the floor by sanding or dust less  refinishing  occurs more frequently.

Hardwood flooring over radiant heat slabs and sleepers in concrete , yes we have the hardwood floor systems that we can guarantee , As with all new hardwood floor installations we will only offer you

Sound technology and wood floor species that we can stand behind and warranty

We Use only Industry standard practices put forth by time honored proven techniques  and practices many of which  are outlined at the NWFA National Wood Flooring Association

Sanding and finishing general guidelines

Sanding and Finishing Guidelines

C. NOTE: When sanding eased- or beveled-edge flooring, appearance of bevels may not be

consistent after sanding. In the case of a micro-bevel product, it is possible that the bevel

will be eliminated.

D. Load the professional sanding machine and edger with the proper sequence of sandpaper

as shown in Appendix C and Appendix D.

E. For specific instructions on sanding and finishing strip, plank and parquet flooring, see

Chapters 2 and 3. For specific instructions on recoating an existing finished floor, see

Chapter 4.

SAFETY NOTE: SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION IS A DANGER. Sanding dust is

highly flammable. To minimize the risk, never operate the sanding machine

when the bag is more than half full. Also, never leave the sanding machine

with dust in the bag or any bag of dust in your vehicle or on the job site. For

more information on Spontaneous Combustion, see Sanding Safety, Appendix F.

􀀶

Part III – General Finishing Guidelines

A. Inspect the floor carefully for all sanding errors. Repair all sander marks as necessary.

After sanding is complete and all sander marks have been repaired, wipe or vacuum all

dust on baseboards, windows, sills, doors and door frames. Clean from the highest surface

to the lowest, in that order. Use a dampened cloth where appropriate on all surfaces

except the bare wood floor.

B. Inspect the floor for cracks and nail holes that may have been missed in the sanding

phase. Spot fill cracks and nail holes with a commercial filler or putty that is compatible

with stain and/or finish. When dry, hand-sand with the grain with the last abrasive used in

the final sanding operation.

C. Vacuum and tack the floor clean. Repeat tacking until floor is clean.

D. If the floor is to be a natural finish, apply sealer followed by the appropriate finish. If other

than a natural color is desired the floor must be stained or bleached. For bleaching refer to

Chapter 5.

E. NOTE: Most manufacturers of stains and finishes recommend using products from the

same manufacturer to ensure compatibility and optimal adhesion. BEFORE USING

DIFFERENT MANUFACTURERS FOR THE STAIN AND FINISH PRODUCTS, CHECK

WITH THE MANUFACTURER FOR COMPATIBILITY.

F. Apply the stain according to manufacturer's coverage rate, application method and

procedures. The final sanding procedure and the species of the wood will determine the

depth of color.

G. Thoroughly wipe the stain from the floor. If the floor contains beveled edges, pay special

attention to the beveled areas.

H. Allow the stain to dry thoroughly, with proper air exchange and circulation. Use the finish

manufacturer's recommended drying time. If the environment is excessively humid or cold

the stain may take longer to dry. The stain must be completely dry before finishing begins.

Be aware that some wood species may require more dry time for stain than the finish

manufacturer recommends. Refer to the NWFA publication, Wood Species Used in Wood

Flooring (A200) for more information on how various species react to stain and finish

application.

Copyright 2007 National Wood Flooring Association 2 Revised March 2007

Chapter 1 – General Sanding

and Finishing Guidelines

I. Apply sealer, if necessary, according to finish manufacturer's recommended coverage rate,

application method and procedures. Refer to Applicator Recommendations in Appendix A.

1. For a wax finish apply seal, then wax and buff or burnish into wood.

2. For surface finishes, following inter coat abrasion, (see Appendix E) apply additional

coats of finish according to manufacturer's recommendation

J. Most surface finished floors can be walked on after 24-48 hours. Do not slide furniture on

the floor. Lift it into place after 48 hours or as recommended by the finish manufacturer. Area

rugs can be put down after the finish is fully cured, generally after 7 to 30 days, or as

recommended by the finish manufacturer.

K. Provide customers with information on proper maintenance practices to protect floor

finishes. Furniture or rugs placed too soon may result in finish or surface damage. Some

area rugs and padding may damage or discolor the finish. This type of damage as well as

color change due to aging and UV sunlight is not the responsibility of the flooring

contractor. In addition, soft plastic or fabric-faced floor protectors should be placed under

the legs of furniture to prevent scuffing and scratching. To prevent scratching, walk-off

mats both inside and outside doorways will help prevent grit, dirt and other debris from

being tracked onto wood floors. For more information, see Wood Floor Maintenance,

SAND & FINISH STRIP & PLANK

Job-Site Preparation and General Sanding Guidelines – See Chapter 1

Part I - Sanding Previously Finished Floors

SAFETY NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR NIOSH-APPROVED RESPIRATORY PROTECTION.

WHEN APPLYING FINISH PRODUCTS, FOLLOW THE RECOMMENDATION IN THE

MSDS SHEET PROVIDED BY THE FINISH MANUFACTURER.

NOTE: When sanding a previously finished floor, ascertain whether the floor finish

contains lead. Floor finishes applied before 1978 may contain lead. Test kits are

available to determine the presence of lead in floor finishes and other architectural

coatings. Abide by local, state and federal guidelines for handling and disposal of lead based

products. For more information, visit the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency

website at www.epa.gov/lead.

A. It is not necessary to fully sand the floor to restore the finish unless the floor has visible

dents, wear patterns or permanent cupping, or the customer wants to change the color of

the floor. A screen and recoat may suffice. See Chapter 4, Recoating a Previously

Finished Floor. Cupped floors should not be sanded until the moisture content of the wood

flooring and the subfloor have stabilized.

B. If the floor was factory-finished, determine what type of finish was applied. High-abrasion

finishes such as aluminum oxide may be more difficult to sand. High-abrasion finishes may

respond better by using a fine-grit (80-grit or finer) abrasion to remove the surface finish.

C. If the floor was previously site-finished, use a coarse-grade abrasive to remove the

previous finish. Refer to Appendix C.

D. Prior to sanding the entire floor, the bevels of beveled-edge flooring should be cleaned to

remove finish, stain and debris. This step should also be repeated after the final sanding

and prior to applying finish. Care should also be taken in applying finish on beveled-edge

flooring to ensure that finish does not “pool up” within the bevels, especially in butt-joints.

In addition, make the customer aware that sanding a beveled-edge product will change the

profile of the bevel. In the case of a micro-bevel product, it is possible that the bevel will be

eliminated.

Part II – Sanding Newly Installed Strip & Plank

A. Check the moisture content of the wood floor prior to sanding. Sanding and finishing or

sealing should occur when the floor has been acclimated to the proper moisture content for

normal living conditions for temperature and humidity. (For a more detailed discussion of

acclimation, refer to the companion piece to this publication, the National Wood Flooring

Association’s Installation Guidelines and Methods.) If the floor is installed in an adhesive

application, sanding and finishing should occur after the adhesive has cured and the

moisture content of the wood has returned to normal. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s

recommendations for proper curing time.

Copyright 2007 National Wood Flooring Association 5 Revised March 2007

Chapter 2 -

Sand & Finish Strip & Plank

B. Load the professional sanding machine and edger with the proper sequence of sandpaper

as shown in Appendix C and Appendix D.

C. The first cut with the big machine should be at a 7-15 degree angle to the length of the

boards, using the finest grit possible that will flatten the floor. (The National Wood Flooring

publication Wood Species Used in Wood Flooring includes suggestions on sanding

sequences for some of the more difficult to sand species.)

Figure 2-1

D. When two-thirds of the floor is complete, turn the sander in the opposite direction and

repeat the process on the remaining third. Cuts made in the one-third area must overlap

the first cuts by two to three feet to blend the two areas together. To avoid creating a

trough, be careful not to stop the sander in the same spot each pass by staggering the

overlap every 2-3 passes. (See Figure 2-1)

E. After the first cut with the big machine, use an edger to sand edges and other places

inaccessible to the sanding machine, using the finest grit possible that will flatten the floor.

F. The second cut with the big machine should be parallel to the grain, using the next

appropriate grit of sandpaper, not skipping more than one grit between sanding cuts. See

Appendix D.

G. After the second cut, use an edger to sand edges and other places inaccessible to the big

machine, using the same grit that will be used on the final sanding cut with the big

machine.

H. Fill the floor before the final straight cut. Spot-fill beveled-edged products; square-edged

products may be spot- or trowel-filled. Use a commercial filler or putty that is compatible

with the stain and/or finish that will be applied, or make your own filler with dust from the

final edging mixed with a compatible mixing agent to form a thick paste.

Copyright 2007 National Wood Flooring Association 6 Revised March 2007

Chapter 2 –

Sand & Finish Strip & Plank

I. The final sanding cut should be parallel to the grain, using the last sequenced grit, not

skipping more than one grit between sanding cuts. See Appendix D.

J. Hand scrape corners, around doorjambs and other areas where the edger cannot be used.

Apply even pressure, scraping in the direction of the grain. After scraping use a sanding

block and paper (same grit as on sanding machine) to blend the flooring. Sanding the

bevel with the corner of the block may be necessary on bevel-edged products.

K. Examine for visible edger and sander marks. To prevent dishing out the grain from

excessive screening, use a buffer, multi-disc sanding machine or oscillating sander over

the entire floor to remove sanding imperfections. This step may not be appropriate for all

wood species.